Note, 3/33/06
- I have made a couple of corrections to the instructions.
1.At the beginning of the heel flap, where I had originally (foolishly) written Knit the next 14 stitches (the 7 remaining stitches on needle 1 and the first 7 stitches from needle 2), I have changed the “Knit” - which is wrong, to “Move” - which is correct.
2.After the instructions to pick up the first 9 stitches for the gusset, I said you would have a total of 16 stitches on that needle. That was wrong - you’ll have 17 stitches :) Assuming, of course, that 8 + 9 still equals 17. The complicated stuff I can handle - it’s the simple stuff that kills me every time!
In the comments to Wednesday’s post, Amaryllis expressed both a desire to make the socks pictured and some confusion over the use of two circular needles in the Basketweave Toddler Socks from which these evolved. She also indicated that, though used to DPNs, she had never knit socks before.
Well, as I think these socks would be perfect learning material (small, cover all the basics and fast to work), I decided to present the pattern in tutorial form. Hopefully this will prove useful to others who are considering taking the sock plunge.
Diamonds and Purls, a toddler-sized sock :)
...also know as Diamonds in the toes of my shoes - great Dulaan socks - wonderful for any charity, really :)
Okay :) Ready?
Start with 50 grams of worsted weight yarn (you will use around 66 - 80 yards for the pair) and four size 4 or 5 (US) needles. If the yarn is heavy worsted or aran weight, you might want to use size 6 (3.5, 3.75 or 4mm needles, respectively).
Cast on
Cast on 28 stitches - loosely. The cast on is a place where a lot of knitters, myself included, tighten up. But, for a sock, you want that row to be as stretchy and flexible as the ribbing. Usually, I cast on to needles two sizes larger than the ones I plan to actually knit with. So for these socks, which I am knitting on size 4s, I cast on with size 6s.
Arrange the stitches so that there are 8 stitches on needle 1, 12 stitches on needle 2 and the last 8 stitches on needle 3.
Ribbing
Join and work (don’t forget to switch your needles) in K2, P2 ribbing for 8 rounds (or K1, P1 - whatever you prefer), or for about an inch (2.5 cm).
Leg
Begin Dot pattern (multiple of 4 stitches - in the round):
Round 1: K1, *P1, K3; repeat from * around, end K2
Round 2: Knit
Round 3: *K3, P1; repeat from * around
Round 4: Knit
Repeat these four rows 6 times, 24 rows, about 2.25 inches (6.5 cm).
Knit the first stitch of the first needle onto the end of needle three.
Move the next 14 stitches (the 7 remaining stitches on needle 1 and the first 7 stitches from needle 2) onto one needle and arrange the remaining stitches on needles 2 and 3 so there are 7 stitches on each. We will ignore these for now while we work the heel. Try not to let the instructions get the best of you. If you haven’t done it before, turning a heel can seem very confusing. Just do what the instructions indicate and as you go along, you’ll see how it all fits together :)
Heel Flap
This is worked in, what is often called heel stitch The alternate slipped stitches on the right side rows compress the fabric and give it a thick, cushy feel. It also helps the heel, as it is abraded by the shoe, not to wear out. Slipping the first stitch of every row also gives you a convenient row of chain-like stitches along the sides of the heel flap in which the gusset stitches will be picked up when the time comes.
Row 1: *Sl1, K1; repeat across row.
Row 2: Sl1, Purl across
Repeat these two rows 7 times (14 rows).
Work row 1 one more time. This is what you should have:
Turning the heel
Slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Slip 1, k3, ssk, k1. Turn.
Slip 1, p4, p2tog, p1. Turn.
slip 1, k5, ssk, k1. Turn.
Slip 1, p6, p2tog. Turn.
Slip 1, k6, ssk.
You should have 8 stitches left on your needle and your sock should look like this:
Gusset
Now we’re going to pick up the gusset stitches on the sides and return to working in the round instead of back and forth. See that chain of stitches that runs down the side of the heel?
We need to pick up 9 of those stitches, starting at the end of the needle you just worked (and using that needle for the new stitches) and going down the side to the first the first of the 7 stitch needles. Use whatever method you’re most comfortable with. I usually use the needle and knit the new stitches right on to it but many people find it easier to pick up the stitches with a crochet hook and then slide them onto the needle. The best method is what ever works for you:)
When you’ve picked up your 9 stitches, you’ll have a total of 17 stitches on that needle. Not to worry; we’ll be moving some of them at the other end of the round :)
Now, with an empty needle, knit the next 14 stitches off both of the next 2 needles, so that all 14 stitches are on one needle. This will now be known as the instep needle.
With another empty needle, pick up 9 stitches up the side and knit 4 stitches off the end of needle one. Your new starting point (where you are right now) is the center of the heel. This will be the beginning of the round for the rest of the sock. You should have 13 stitches on each of the heel needles (half of the heel stitches plus nine picked-up stitches) and 14 stitches on the instep needle.
Now we will begin decreasing the gusset stitches until we are back to our beginning number of 28 stitches total. And, by the way, you can relax now. The tricky stuff is over and the rest is simplicity itself :)
Round 1: Knit
Round 2: Knit to 3 stitches before the end of needle 1, K2tog, K1. Knit across instep stitches. On last needle, K1, SSK, and knit to the end.
Repeat these two rounds a total of 6 times (12 rows). Each heel needle should now have 7 stitches on it and the instep needle should still have 14 stitches. It should look something like this:
Foot
Now the foot pattern begins - for the following 16 rounds, the stitches on both heel needles are knit plain. Since the diamond pattern takes place solely on the instep needle, only those stitches are being described. So you would knit 7, do the appropriate instep pattern row and knit 7 for each round.
Row 1: K6, P2, K6
Row 2: K5, P1, K2, P1, K5
Row 3: K4, P1, K4, P1, K4
Row 4: K3, P1, K6, P1, K3
Row 5: K4, P1, K4, P1, K4
Row 6: K5, P1, K2, P1, K5
Row 7: K6, P2, K6
Row 8: Knit
Row 9: Knit
Repeat Rows 1-7 for second diamond. End at center heel, ready to begin toe decreases.
The toe decreases are very similar to the gusset decreases except that we are now doing it on both the front and back of the sock.
Round 1:
Needle 1: Knit to within 3 stitches of end of needle. K2tog, K1.
Needle 2: K1, SSK, knit to within three stitches of end of needle, K2tog, K1
Needle 3: K1, SSK, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit
Repeat these two rounds 3 times, for a total of 6 rounds. There should be 4 stitches on each of the heel needles and 8 stitches on the instep needle.
Now work Round 1 only, two times. At the end of the second round, knit the last two heel stitches onto the other heel needle. You have two needles holding four stitches each.
Now, you can graft (kitchener stitch) the toes or use the three-needle bind-off. Or (deep breath) you can try this - which is what I’ve come up with since the three-needle bind off is lumpy and I seem to be utterly incapable of grasping the kitchener stitch. This method is a bit fiddly, but it is easy and produces a nice, neat, non-lumpy closure.
Are you game? It goes like this. You now have 4 stitches each on each of two needles. Look to see where your yarn is coming out of the last stitch you worked. Turn your needles so that this stitch is on the lower left. Take an empty needle and, from between the holding needles, pick up the first stitch on the back needle (the needle furthest from you). Then, again from between the holding needles, pick up the first stitch from the front needle.
Pick up the next stitch from the back needle and then the next stitch from the front needle. Continue transferring stitches this way until you have all eight stitches on one needle, having ended with the stitch your working yarn is coming from.
Now, pick a smaller needle than your working size (say a size 2 if you’re using size 4 needles). Make sure the working yarn is on your left. Slip the first two stitches on the right-hand side to the smaller needle. Then lift the second stitch over the first and off the needle. Slip the next stitch from the main needle and lift the second stitch on the smaller needle over it and off.
Continue this way until you have worked all the stitches off the main needle. You should have one stitch left. Cut your yarn, leaving enough of a tail for you to comfortably work with. Thread the end through a tapestry needle and insert the needle through that last stitch. Pull gently to tighten down the stitch so that it lays flat and in line with the other toe stitches and tack down with a couple of tiny stitches. Bring the yarn to the inside of the sock and weave in the end.
Weave in the cast on tail and congratulate yourself! You’ve made a darn cute sock. When you get your breath back, make its mate :)
Does that help, Amaryllis?
Have a wonderful weekend!
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Oh my goodness Robbyn! Bless you!. I’m at work right now, but I will print this out and start on a sock this weekend. I suppose you could make them larger by adding stitches in multiples of 4? But hey, I’m gettin ahead of myself ....
I will certainly let you know how it goes. Have a wonderful weekend!
amaryllis
okay, you know i look like i’m twirling lariats when i try the 2-circ method, so you just had to do this, didn’t you? this might be good for a laugh, but i think i’ll try again- i’ve got *lots* of pink yarn lying around, so i will make some for one of the baby divas around this place-
when i vanish for all eternity, it will be because i strangled myself on those blasted circs-
the tutorial looks great- thanks to you and your photographer-
stay happy-
What a fantastic tutorial. Thank you so much :)
Amaryllis - Yup, you can increase the diameter by increasing in multiples of four (for the dot dtitch pattern) and the it would simply be a matter of knitting more rows for the leg and foot.
Please, if you try following this tutorial, let me know if you have any problems or find any of it difficult to follow. I’d be happy to help :)
Barb - you know, that reminds me that I’ve got two size 2 circulars in my bag from when I tried the two circular thing. I’m comfortable with DPNs now (though it was a struggle!) but maybe I should give it another try myself :)
I wonder if they’re long enough to do a magic loop thing? I like that way of working in the round but I always have to go back to the DPNs to do the heel.
Pam - My pleasure :) I hope folks find it useful.
Very nice pattern, and just in time for the hats and socks deadline for Duulan. Thank you!
Kathy - I don’t know why, exactly, but I just love making this little sock :) Enjoy!
Nice job on the tutorial. I am a big fan of the two circ method. That is usually the one I use for all my socks. But, the last ones I made I used my trusty DP’s. I think there is a nice rhythm with the Dp’s. Have a great weekend.
I’ll definitely have to try that bind off in the future! thanks for the tip!
Maureen - I made my first sock attempt on circulars believing, at that time, that I would never get the hang of DPNs. But I couldn’t warm up to the hanging needles :( But I’m also thinking that I should give it another try - just for the experience :)
Ahh Nat - All I can say is that it works for me. You should see my grafting - looks like somebody tried to close the sock toe with spiral pasta!
