I have noticed a particular start to some top-down shawl patterns.  It generally goes:

Cast on a few stitches provisionally.
Knit x number of rows.
Pick up stitches along side and knit.
Undo provisional cast-on and knit those stitches.

At this point the stitch patterning for the shawl begins.  Sometimes that x number of rows is longer as with the Moonlight Sonata and done this way, it seems to be an edging or a border.  But often that x number of rows is short, 14 - 20 or so, as with the Kiri.

What’s that about?  I’ve seen it several times now, but none of the patterns have explained why that’s a good way to start a top-down shawl.  So in the interest of scientific exploration (ahem...), I decided to play with the idea and see if I could figure it out :)

I started off with 5 provisionally cast-on stitches which I knit for 20 rows (10 garter st ridges).  Then I picked up 10 stitches down the side , undid the provisional cast-on and knit those stitches too: 20 stitches in all.  This provided me with a somewhat crescent shaped piece of knitting upon which I then started working the standard increases - one on either side of the center stitch(es) and one at each end of the row - 4 increase stitches per right side row.

I couldn’t come to any conclusion.  Maybe I’m just being thick.  This method does provide a nice, tidy start and perhaps that’s all it’s supposed to do.  However, I kind of got carried away with the colors and continued on the item past what could be called the experimental stage :)

I had started with two strands of alpaca lace weight plus a strand of variegated rayon thread.  As I was perusing the stash, I noticed some lovely plum colored Cleckheaton mohair wool (a gift from dear Nat at KnittingNatty) that would coordinate beautifully with the rose colored lace weight and the multi-colored rayon and the next thing I knew I was swapping out colors as the spirit moved me and adding things like eyelets and petals…

I hardly put this down all weekend and pretty much ignored everything else as the only thing I seemed to be able to think of was getting back to all that luscious color :) Yes, carried away is the right phrase.  As of this morning, it looked like this:





Sizewise, I imagine this will be more like a generous scarf or a shoulder shawl when it’s complete.  The thing is, I think, to find a yarn you absolutely adore (maybe in a couple of colors) and then give yourself permission to play as suits your fancy.  I’m having so much fun with this which is why, I suppose, I can’t put it down :)

Before I started that little sojourn though, I played with something else.  I got the link from Omly over at Omly Crafts for Birds of a Feather.  I haven’t been attracted much to the amigurumi crochet projects, but this was just too cute for words…

The little one on the left was the first attempt and shows it :) The red one is a little better, I think and I altered the pattern to the extent that the tail and wings were crocheted as I went along, rather than created separately and stitched on afterwards.  Just me being lazy.  The eyes and beak are embroidered because I had neither craft doll eyes nor felt.

Myria likes ‘em :)

I have been taking it a little easy with my knitting the last few days.  My wrists have been bothering me - sometimes quite a lot and I don’t want to aggravate them to the point where I can’t knit.  Actually, I suspect game playing to be the culprit here - and lousy posture while I’m doing it so I’m trying to remedy that.

I had started a little sock the other night but hadn’t gotten past the 5th round before my wrists started howling, so I abandoned that in favor of something else.  For all my tendency to knit relatively loosely, I tend to tighten up when I’m working on socks and right now, that’s not a good idea :)

So I started a simple scarf with worsted weight yarn on size 8 US (5.0 mm) needles.

Does this look like the banner at the Thanksgiving game or what?  Heh… This is the Paton’s wool that I dyed a few weeks ago when I was dithering about the border for the entrelac shawl.

There’s no real pattern here, just 12 rows of garter stitch interspersed with seed stitch, colors changed more or less randomly with each section.  I stop every few sections and weave in the ends because I couldn’t face having to do them all together when the scarf is completed.

On the lace front, I’ve been looking for a simple pattern to experiment practice on.  This one, the Wildflower Shawl looks like a real possibility, though I think I’d mirror the flower lace on one side of the shawl rather than have all the flowers facing in the same direction.  I’d have to do some more dyeing, but I have the yarn for this and it would be nice, loose knitting that wouldn’t aggravate my wrists.

I also confess to being rather taken with the Stor Rund Dug piece, though I’m not sure it isn’t a little ambitious just at the moment :) It sure is beautiful and even if I decide to hold off on tackling it, it would go on the list for serious future consideration.

I’ve been reading Jhumpa Lahiri’s book The Namesake and enjoying it quite a lot.

Lahiri’s writing style is so clear, it rings like a bell.  I am only a little over halfway through with this, but I’m enjoying it very much and recommend it.  I also recommend her collection of short stories, Interpreter of Maladies - some of the best short fiction I have ever read.

I, like many others, am practically frothing at the mouth to get my grubby little hands on the last Harry Potter book :) I will also see the new film, though after the last one, I have few expectations of it.  I went out this week to have a look at Charmed Knits which I thought was kind of a cute idea.  I changed my mind after I’d had the chance to look through it.  Without being snotty - it’s just not for me and I’m glad I didn’t order it sight unseen as I had been thinking about doing.

While in the book store, I also finally (after seeing it so glowingly recommended in so many places) got to look through Charlene Schurch’s Sensational Knitted Socks.  I’m surprised Borders didn’t make me purchase the copy I was looking at because of the drool on the pages.  This is definitely something I’m going to want and I didn’t dare look at the second book (More Sensational Knitted Socks) for fear of complete overload :)

Stay cool, friends (or warm for my friends down under) and have a lovely weekend!

So I finished the socks and the scarf.  What next?

The Knitting Fool site has a huge quantity of knitting stitch patterns, not to mention other knitting tools.  For a stitch pattern junkie like me, it’s absolute heaven.  I go there periodically just to browse around and see what catches my fancy.  Today, this stitch did:

It’s called knot stitch and is actually very simple.

Knot Stitch

Cast on a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches.

Row 1:  *K1, sl1 purlwise, K1.  Pass the slipped stitch over and place it back on the left needle; K1*.  Repeat between *s , end K1.

Row 2:  Purl.

In worsted weight yarn it creates a rich, springy texture.  And as I looked at this, I kept wondering what it would look likes as ribbing - for socks, maybe?

This color is damnably difficult to photograph - especially in artificial light - but the ribbing looks terrific :) The stitch pattern is asymmetrical and the purl ditches make it even more striking!

Knot Stitch Ribbing

Cast on a multiple of 5 + 4 stitches

Row 1:  *K1, sl1 purlwise, K1.  Pass the slipped stitch over and place it back on the left needle; K1, p2*.  Repeat between *s , end K1.

Row 2:  P4, *K2, p3*.  Repeat between *s.

And then, something else occurred to me - quite in keeping with the way my mind has been wandering the last several days.

The work is perhaps not quite as open as most laces, but it isn’t unattractive either.  So I gave it another try…

Knot Stitch Eyelets

Cast on a multiple of 5 + 4 stitches

Row 1:  *K1, sl1 purlwise, K1.  Pass the slipped stitch over and place it back on the left needle; K1, k2tog, yo*.  Repeat between *s , end K1.

Row 2:  Purl.

Row 3:  *K1, sl1 purlwise, K1.  Pass the slipped stitch over and place it back on the left needle; K1, yo, ssk*.  Repeat between *s , end K1.

Row 4:  Purl.

The eyelets are a little drunken looking, but they do open up the piece.

I have always been a stitch-pattern fiend - could never have enough books, bookmarks or notes.  I would rather buy a stitch pattern treasury than any other kind of knitting book.  But today I discovered that a stitch pattern can be a starting point!  In and of itself, it may be lovely but it may also be possible to use it in other ways - as lace, as ribbing.  What happens if you offset the pattern by one stitch, every other repeat?  Do it backwards?  I suppose the possibilities aren’t really limitless, but they are certainly more - and more varied! - than I had imagined.  This means that every stitch pattern that I know (or can get my little needles on) may have another several hidden within it!

This could be fun :)

It’s also worth noting that the lace weight yarn suddenly, and inexplicably, seems less clumsy today.  I have no idea why that might be but it’s certainly welcome :) I expect that something slick like the baby alpaca (or something with a high silk or rayon content) might still be a little awkward, but I believe I’m actually getting somewhere with this…

Thank you all for your kind comments on the shawl.  It was a great project and I had a great time doing it.

There’s a new post over at The Dye Pot.  The yarn color is Thunder Storm and I’m not completely sure I’m done with this one yet…

I believe I’m going to be content with small projects for a while here :) I’m trying to get a few “seed” items into my Dulaan 2008 bag so that it will grow and prosper.  I’m going to try and make mittens a part of things this year too.  I figure if I can manage socks, mittens shouldn’t be any big deal right?

In the meantime, however, socks will do…

This is a version of the Leaves and Vines socks.  It’s made on 30 stitches with worsted weight yarn on size 5 US (3.75 mm) needles and should fit a medium sized child.  I like making Dulaan socks out of worsted weight yarn because then I can hope they’ll be warmer and sturdier than otherwise.  Between the socks and the scarf (this scarf) I’ll finally be finishing up that pink yarn.  That’s Classic Elite’s Waterspun which has been discontinued for quite a while now and I’ve had a lot of that color in my cabinet.  This is the last of it.  I won’t miss the strident pink (which, of course, I could have dyed), but I’ll miss the yarn which was always nice to work with.

For some reason, my mind wandered back to lace this weekend.  I perused books and magazines and found myself doing this:

Single strand of lace weight yarn and size 5 US (3.75 mm) needles.





Double strand of lace weight yarn and size 5 US (3.75 mm) needles.





Double strand of lace weight yarn and size 8 US (5 mm) needles.

I was also seized by the compulsion to check out various lace and fingering weight yarns that have been stashed away to see about color compatibility…

Where is all this going?  Heheh...haven’t a clue!

Yet :)

Concept

I wanted to make a triangular, entrelac shawl with some lace elements.  Well, that’s not entirely true.  I wanted to make a lace, entrelac shawl but found that I couldn’t manipulate the fine yarn to my satisfaction.  The ability will probably come with time and practice but I didn’t want to wait that long for the shawl :)

Trasitionally, entrelac is worked in rectangles.  With some playing around, however, I discovered that binding off the last block of each tier would give me the triangle shape I was looking for.

First a number of triangles are worked - to give the top of the shawl a straight edge.  The last triangle is bound off and stitches are picked up to work the first block of the first tier.  Each tier of blocks is worked in the opposite direction from, and contains one block less than the preceding tier.  Work proceeds from top to bottom, beginning with 11 triangles at the top and ending with one block at the bottom.  When the last block is bound off, stitches are picked up and the border is worked on one side at a time.  There may be a way to create a symmetrical border by working from the top corner on one side of the shawl, down, around the point and up the other side - but I couldn’t find it :)

I also dyed the yarn for this piece as I was hoping for a graduated transition from light to dark.  I’m not going to detail that process here except to say that while what I got wasn’t quite what I was looking for, it is acceptable and the process was, for me, part of the fun :)

The execution of this piece isn’t difficult but it is a bit complex.  Familiarity with the entrelac technique is definitely recommended.

Materials

2200 yards of worsted weight yarn, about 1540 yards for the body of the shawl and about 660 yards for the border.  Original made with Knitpicks Bare Peruvian Highland Wool.  Body wool was dyed in graduated blues with Easter egg dye tablets.  Border wool was left natural.

Size 9 circular needle.  You could probably get away with a 47” needle.  I used a 60” needle and was glad for the length.

Size 9 straight needles to work the border (I used double points with point protectors on the ends).

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Dimensions

Width (across the top):  93”
Height (from top to point):  48”

Note:  This shawl is huge and was designed that way intentionally.  I am a big girl and this is a big girl’s wrap :) You can make it smaller by casting on for fewer blocks.  You could also use finer yarn and smaller needles.  I do realize that not everyone wants a shawl that can double as a blanket.

Stitch Patterns - Tier A

Lace-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) *K1, yo, k3, sl2-k1-psso, k3, yo; repeat from * one time and end K2tog (last picked up stitch together with next available stitch from following block of triangle.

Row 2:  (and all wrong side rows) Sl1, purl across.

Repeat these two rows for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Solid-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) K3, yf, slip 3 purlwise, yb, k5, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, k2tog incorporating the last stitch of the row with the next available stitch of the next block or triangle.

Row 2:  S1, purl to end.

Row 3:  K4.  Inserting needle beneath the first float on the previous right-side row, K1, drawing the loop under the float.  K1, yf, sl5 purlwise, yb, k1, kf, k3, k2tog-b.

Row 4:  Sl1, purl to end.

Row 5:  K3, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, kf, k2, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, k2togb.

Row 6:  Sl1, purl to end.

Repeat rows 3 - 6 for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Stitch Patterns - Tier B

Lace-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) *Sl1, yo, k3, sl2-k1-psso, k3, yo; repeat from * one time and end K1.

Row 2:  (and all wrong side rows) Purl across to last stitch.  P2tog, incorporating the last stitch of the row with the next available shawl stitch.

Repeat these two rows for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Solid-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) K3, yf, slip 3 purlwise, yb, k5, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k3.

Row 2:  Purl to last stitch, P2tog, incorporating the last stitch of the row with the next available shawl stitch.

Row 3:  K4, kf, k1, drawing the loop under the float.  K1, yf, sl5 purlwise, yb, k1, kf, k3, k2tog-b.

Row 4:  Purl to last stitch, p2tog.

Row 5:  K3, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, kf, k2, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k3.

Row 6:  Purl to last stitch, p2tog.

Repeat rows 3 - 6 for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Special Terms

Sssk (sssk) - Same as an ssk except done with three stitches instead of two.

KF (kf) - Knit float.  Insert needle under float created on previous, right-side row and knit stitch, bringing loop down and out from under the float creating a chevron shape of the yarn.

The Beginning

Cast on 187 stitches, loosely.

Row 1:  P2, turn.
Row 2:  K2, turn.
Row 3:  P3, turn.
Row 4:  K3, turn.
Row 5:  P4, turn.
Row 6:  K4, turn…

Continue like this, picking up an additional stitch on each purl row until your row consists of P17.  Do not turn.  The first triangle is complete.  Create the next triangle the same way and continue creating triangles until you have 11 all together. 

Turn work and bind off last triangle created.  Do not break yarn. 

The Middle

Tier A

Pick up 16 stitches knitwise, along the side of the next triangle or block (for the first block of the tier only - you will need to pick up 17 stitches for subsequent blocks).  Refer to diagram to determine whether the next block is a lace-pattern or a solid-pattern.  Tier A blocks are worked from right to left and the stitches for them are picked up knitwise.  Work a purl row and then begin the pattern.  Tier A blocks are joined to the shawl with a k2tog-b consisting of the last working stitch and the next available stitch of the shawl.

When you’ve incorporated the last available shawl stitch on the last block of Tier A, turn work and bind off that block.

Tier B

Pick up 16 stitches, purlwise, along the side of the next block (for the first block of the tier only - you will need to pick up 17 stitches for subsequent blocks).  Refer to diagram to determine whether the next block is a lace pattern or a solid pattern.  Tier B blocks are worked from left to right and the stitches are picked up purlwise.  Begin pattern on the next row.  Tier B blocks are joined to the shawl with a p2tog, consisting of the last working stitch and the next available stitch of the shawl.

When you’ve incorporated the last available shawl stitch on the last block of Tier B, turn work and bind off that block.

The shawl will finish with a single, Tier B block.

The End

Borders are worked on one side at a time, from the top down.

Beginning at the point on the right-hand side of the shawl, pick up 224 stitches (use your long circular for this).

Cast on an additional 15 stitches.

Row 1:  (and all wrong side rows) Purl to last stitch, P2tog - the last cast-on stitch together with the first stitch from the side of the shawl.

Row 2:  Sl1, K3, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p5.
Row 4:  Sl1, K2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, p5.
Row 6:  Sl1, K1, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, p5.
Row 8:  Sl1, yo, K3tog, K1, yo, k7, yo, k1, p5.
Row 10: Sl1, k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.
Row 12: Sl1, K6, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.
Row 14: Sl1, k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.
Row 16: Sl1, k4, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.

Repeat Rows 1 - 16 for pattern.  When last stitch has been worked off the side of the shawl, purl back and continue thus, beginning with a right-side row:

K10, p5.
P14, turn.
K9, p5.
P13, turn,
K8, p5.
P12, turn.
K7, p5.
P11, turn.
K6, p5.
P10, turn.
K5, p5.
P9, turn.
K4, p5.
P8, turn.
K3, p5.
P7, turn.
K2, p5.
P6, turn.
K1, p5.
P5.

Place these 15 stitches on a holder or a piece of yarn.

On the opposite side of the shawl, starting at the top, pick up 224 stitches.  Break yarn.

Cast 15 stitches on to a double point or a short, straight needle and, starting at the top....

Row 1:  P5, K1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k3tog, to, k3, k2tog-back (last stitch of border and first available shawl stitch.

Row 2:  (and all wrong side rows) S1, purl to end of row.

Row 3:  P5, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k2, k2tog-b.
Row 5:  P5, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k1, k2tog-b.
Row 7:  P5, k1, yo, k7, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k2tog-b.
Row 9:  P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k7, k2tog-b.
Row 11: P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k6, k2tog-b.
Row 13: P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k5, k2tog-b.
Row 15: P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k4, k2tog-b.
Row 16: Sl1, purl to end of row.

Repeat these 16 rows for the border pattern.
When you’ve finished knitting up the picked up stitches, continue thus:

P5, k9, turn and purl back.
P5, k8, turn and purl back.
P5, k7, turn and purl back.
P5, k5, turn and purl back.
P5, k4, turn and purl back.
P5, k3, turn and purl back.
P5, k2, turn and purl back.
P5, k1, turn and purl back.
P5, turn and purl back.

Graft, sew or do a three-needle bind-off to join this side of the border point to the other side.

Weave in all ends and block as you desire.

These were really an exercise in imagination and there is nothing even slightly difficult or tricky about any of them.  These are all constructed from the bottom up and I will give you the patterns I used.  However, bear in mind that any stitch you like can be used, provided you pick up the appropriate multiple of stitches around the base once it has been completed.  Also, while the patterns explain how to do what I did, any method of creating a base (or ties, for that matter) will work just fine and you should feel free to go with whatever your favorite technique is :)

Size

All bags are roughly 4.5-5” in diameter and 4.5 - 6” in height.

Materials

About 50 grams, approximately 100 yards light, worsted weight cotton (original bags were made from Classic Elite’s Newport, discontinued, and Flash) Each bag takes about one ball.
Size 7 US (4.5 mm) needles (double points or circular - whatever you like to use to work in the round).
Size 6 US (4.0 mm) crochet hook

Bag - the 1st

Because I have a horrible time with casting on for something to be worked out from the center, I was looking for another way to handle things.  Hence the dishcloth base :)

Provisionally cast on 10 stitches.

Row 1:  Purl 10
Row 2:  Knit 9, turn (or wrap and turn on the short row - your preference)
Row 3:  Purl 9
Row 4:  Knit 8, turn
Row 5:  Purl 8
Row 6:  Knit 7, turn
Row 7:  Purl 7
Row 8:  Knit 6, turn
Row 9:  Purl 6
Row 10: Knit 5, turn
Row 11: Purl 5
Row 12: Knit 4, turn
Row 13: Purl 4
Row 14: Knit 3, turn
Row 15: Purl 3
Row 16: Knit 2, turn
Row 17: Purl 2
Row 18: Knit 1, turn
Row 19: Purl 1
Row 20: Knit 10, turn
Row 21: Purl 10

Repeat Rows 2-21 4 more times: 5 wedges total.
Release your provisional cast on and graft the cast-on end to the working end.  You can also do a three-needle bind-off if you prefer.  Run the yarn end around the hole it the center, draw tightly to close and fasten off on the back side.

Pick up 51 stitches around the edge of the base and mark the first stitch. 

Purl 2 rounds.
Knit next 9 rounds.
Do seed stitch for 5 rounds (*K1, P1*)
Knit the next 4 rounds.

Bobble round: K1, MB, *K2, MB*; repeat between *s around.  End K1.  (Make bobble thus:  K1, yo, k1 all in next stitch.  Turn.  P3.  Turn.  Lift second stitch over first and drop off the end of the needle.  Lift the third stitch over the first and drop it off too.  Knit remaining stitch through the back of the loop.  Bobble is complete.)

Knit 4 rounds.
Do 5 rounds seed stitch.
Knit 5 rounds.
Purl 2 rounds, decreasing 1 stitch on the last round - 50 stitches.

Next round:  K2, K2tog, yo, *K4, K2tog, yo*; repeat between *s.  End K2.
Knit 2 rounds.

Bind off loosely until you have one stitch left.  Do not cut yarn.

With your crochet hook, ch1. Sc in same space.
*Sl st in next st, ch3, sl st in first chain. Sc in next stitch.* Repeat around, joining with a sl st in first single crochet.  Cut yarn and weave in all ends.

Make a cord about 30” long (I-cord, monk’s cord, braid - whatever you prefer; the tie on the original bag is monk’s cord) and thread through the eyelets, knotting the ends so the cord stays put :)

Bag - the 2nd

Make a loop of yarn - no slip knot! - and work 8 sc into the loop (excellent tutotial here for Adjustable Ring).  Pull the end gently to draw the stitches into a circle (alternatively, ch2 and work 7 sc into first chain; join with slip stitch in last chain).

Round 1:  Ch 2, hdc into same space.  Work 2 hdc into each stitch around, join in starting chain.  16 hdc.
Round 2:  Ch 2, 2 hdc in next stitch.  *Work 1 hdc in next stitch and 2 hdcs in following stitch*.  Repeat between *s around, join in starting chain.  24 hdc.
Round 3:  Ch 2.  Hdc in next stitch.  Work 2 hdcs in following stitch.  *Work 1 hdc in each of next two stitches and 2 hdcs in following stitch*.  Repeat between *s around, join in starting chain.  32 hdc.
Round 4:  Ch 2.  Hdc in each of next 2 stitches.  Work 2 hdc in following stitch.  *Work 1 hdc in each of next
3 stitches and 2 hdc in following stitch.* Repeat between *s around, join in starting chain.  40 hdc.
Round 5:  Ch 2, hdc in each of next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in following stitch.  *Work hdc in each of next 4 stitches and 2 hdc in following stitch.* Repeat between *s around, join in starting chain.  48 hdc.
Round 6:  Ch 2.  Work one more round of hdcs, increasing 3 stitches evenly - do not join. (51 hdc)

Working into the strand just below the back loop of the stitch (see this post; scroll down for the crochet part and a general description of this technique), hdc in each stitch around and continue spiraling up (that is, just keep crocheting hdcs in the next stitch without joining) for about 2.5 - 3”.

Now you’ll return to working in regular rounds and to working the hdcs in the normal way by inserting the hook under both the front and back loops of the stitch.

*Hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, ch1, skip next stitch.* Repeat around, joining in first hdc, Eyelet row complete.

Ch 2.  Hdc in same space, ch1.  *2 hdc in next st, ch1.* Repeat around, join in starting chain.  Fasten off.

Go back to the base of your bag and cinch up the starting stitches with that yarn end so that there’s no hole.  Thread end through a tapestry needle, draw to inside of work and fasten off.

Weave in any other ends.  Make your tie (at least 30” long, longer if you prefer) in whatever fashion you like (the one on the original bag is braided).  Thread tie through eyelets and fasten ends together.

Bag - the 3rd

Begin as for Bag - the 2nd, with the same crocheted base except increasing to 50 stitches (rather than 51) on the final round.  Do not fasten off!

Switching to your needles, pick up the last crochet loop plus 59 stitches around the base - 60 stitches total.

Rows 1-6:  *Knit 5, Purl 5* around for 6 rounds.
Rows 6-12: *Purl 5, Knit 5* around for 6 rounds.

Repeat rows 1-12 once more and then rows 1-6 one more time.

Knit 2 rounds plain.

Next round:  *Knit 3, yo, ssk*, around.

Knit 2 rounds plain and bind off loosely.  Don’t cut yarn, but finish edge with a round of single crochet.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make cord (the cord on the original is I-cord) in whatever fashion strikes your fancy, and thread it through the eyelets.

Notes: Any of these little bags can be whipped up very quickly so they are a nice project if you don’t have lots of time.  They aren’t big enough to be used as general purses but with a little embellishment (or the use of some fancy yarn!) they could be suitable evening bags - big enough to hold money, keys and lipstick plus a little more :)