Thursday, September 30, 2004
Mosaic Madness!
Last night, pondering what to do with the poncho, I remembered something I’d seen recently. As it happens, I currently have the first two Walker treasuries out of the library, so a few moments of leafing through the second one brought me to what I was looking for.
Miniature Mosaic pattern
Mosaic knitting! In fact this would address a couple of issues. First, if I use this at the bottom of the panel, done in garter stitch, it would lie nice and flat. I like the seed stitch I’ve been using, but it is (of course) flipping up instead of lying down and behaving itself. Second, while I probably wouldn’t run the design up the sides, there wouldn’t be any reason not to run the colors up the sides, alternating in a horizontal garter stitch border which would keep the sides also nice and flat (non-curling) andpreserve the color contrast to the top where the mosaic would be repeated - or maybe even another design executed?
Three-and-One Mosaic Pattern
I’m going to play with this idea some more and maybe see if the library consortium can find me Walker’s Mosaic Knitting…
...Ahhh - they do have a copy and are going to request it for me. I love my library.
Goldie
Yesterday really was quite cool and poor Jade spent the day hopping from one available lap to the other. She’s only about half Goldie’s size and she’s short haired with no real undercoat to speak of so she felt the temperature keenly. At least that’s what she was telling us all day. Goldie, however, being a big, burly fellow with an undercoat you could knit kittens from, is vastly enjoying the cooler weather.
As am I :)
Wednesday, September 29, 2004
Poncho Pondering…
Finished the mitten mate!
Cable Crazy!
The scarf isn’t finished yet, I want it about double the length it is now but that will come.
As this project is winding up, my thoughts are returning to the poncho these are supposed to adorn and I find myself with an issue. The bright pink verticals are lumpy :(
Lumpy poncho
The picture isn’t crystal clear, but I think you can see how the vertical stripe stands up from the fabric. Believe me when I tell you I have knit this as loosely as I possibly could without leaving gaping holes in the fabric - but it doesn’t seem to change anything. Perhaps it’s because the Waterspun (bright pink) is so soft and the White Buffalo (light pink) is so burly and sturdy. I keep telling myself it’s a feature, not a bug...but, sadly, it’s not a feature I like. I’m seriously considering starting this thing over from the beginning - without the bright pink - unless I can come up with a way to integrate it more smoothly. Lumpy just isn’t what I’m after here.
I did find a yarn to combine with my fuchsia Tahki cotton that doesn’t turn down the wattage of the color. It’s a raspberry microfiber and it was lurking in my stash all along :) You really can’t distinguish one color from another in the picture, but you can see that the color impact is strong and undiminished.
Bright!!
I have enough squares now for three rows plus a little. I’m looking forward to putting this thing together; it’s been many, many years since I’ve made an afghan and I find that I’m enjoying this project quite a lot. When I’m working on the squares, I find that I can’t help thinking about how warm and luxurious this is going to be when it’s all done and assembled. A la Homer Simpson: “Mmmmm...afghans”.
Finally, a kind soul (thanks, Grace!) pointed me to the original Pinwheel Hat pattern, still available on the web via an archive site. Consequently, I have removed the pattern from my sidebar. However, I have added a link to the original pattern. My modification notes and the cable chart remain.
It’s grey, rainy and cold here today. I expect to drop by my father’s later on, but I think the balance of the day is best spent playing with sticks and wool. Especially the wool :)
Monday, September 27, 2004
Mitten Pattern
I had a nice and reasonably relaxing weekend. I got halfway through the second mitten and that’s about all I did - no wait - I did some more little squares for the tablecloth too :) Mostly I read.
I got into Fannie Flagg’s Standing in the Rainbow and that was pretty much it. It follows a wide and diverse group of people from the 40s through the present. It’s the characters that make this novel; Ms. Flagg’s ear for dialogue is quite good. So while the plot is slim and the history sometimes a bit iffy, it’s a very pleasant read.
Following is the pattern for the mitten. This could be put together any number of ways, including with a more standard type of ribbing - but this is the way I did it. Please feel free to adapt to your particular desires and please feel free to drop me a line (see sidebar) if you run into any difficulties or peculiarities in the pattern!
Cable Cuff Mittens
Thought Process
I get a gauge of 5 sts/in (stockinette) using the Waterspun yarn and size 7 (US) needles. So I cast on enough stitches to do the cable panel +1 stitch for the selvedge edge where the stitches will be picked up for the hand + 25 sts for the vertical garter double-cuff. For my wrist, 8 repetitions of the cable panel were what it took to go around comfortably. I did a provisional cast-on and, when the length was appropriate, a three-needle bind-off. Then, using Ann Budd’s The Knitter’s Hand Book of Patterns as a guide, I picked up around the top of the cuff, increased on the next row to the number of stitches required for my size hand and worked from there. Basically, you work the cable/cuff part until it fits comfortably around your wrist and then sew it up. Fold half of the cuff to the inside and sew to the bottom of the cable band. Pick up stitches around the top and, if necessary, increase on the next row until you have what you need to make a comfortable hand for you. Any mitten pattern will serve as a reasonable guide - including your favorite pattern. Then it’s just working the hand until it’s done.
Pattern (i.e. - what I actually did)
Materials
About 150 grams worsted weight yarn
Straight needles, size 7 (US)
Double point needles, size 7 (US)
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Terms
K Knit
P Purl
Sl1 wyib Slip one stitch purlwise with the yarn in back.
FC (front cross) Slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in front. P1. K2 from cable needle.
BC (back cross) Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold in back. K2. P1 from cable needle.
C4B Slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in back. K2. K2 from cable needle.
C4F Slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in front. K2. K2 from cable needle.
Pm Place marker
M1 Increase by picking up running thread between stitches, front to back and knitting into the back of this stitch.
Gauntlet Cuff
Cast on (provisionally) 41 stitches.
Row 1: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K2, P2, C4B, P2, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1.
Row 2: K2, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1, K13, P1, K12
Row 3: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, FC, BC, FC, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1
Row 4: K2, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1, K13, P1, K12
Row 5: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, Sl1 wyib, P2, C4F, P2, K2, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1
Row 6: K2, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1, K13, P1, K12
Row 7: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, sl1 wyib, P1, BC, FC, BC, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1
Row 8: K2, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1, K13, P1, K12
Repeat these rows eight times. Length of cable should be about 9.5”. Release provisional cast on, picking up stitches on a spare needle the same size as the ones you’re working with. Do a three-needle bind-off or graft if you prefer. You could also cast on and cast off in the normal fashion and mattress stitch the seam - all that matters is that you do what you prefer and are comfortable with.
Turn the piece inside out and fold the gauntlet up to the bottom of the cable. The slipped stitches should be running in a chain around the bottom edge of the cuff. Sew the edge of the cuff neatly to the bottom of the cable band.
Hand
Starting to the immediate left of the seam and on the right side of the work, pick up 36 stitches around the top of the cable band.
Knit around, increasing 7 stitches evenly - 43 stitches.
Knit 2 rounds even.
Thumb gusset - right hand
K33, pm, M1, K1, M1, pm, k10
Knit 2 rounds even
K33, M1, K3, M1, K10
Knit 2 rounds even
K33, M1, K5, M1, K10
Knit 3 round even
K33, M1, K7, M1, K10
Repeat the last two rows 4 more times, adding 2 gusset stitches in the fashion described on each increase row until you have 17 gusset stitches in all.
Thumb gusset - left hand
K10, pm, M1, K1, M1, pm, K33
Knit 2 rounds even
K10, M1, K3, M1, K33
Knit 2 rounds even
K10, M1, K5, M1, K33
Knit 3 round even
K10, M1, K7, M1, K33
Repeat the last two rows 4 more times, adding 2 gusset stitches in the fashion described on each increase row until you have 17 gusset stitches in all.
On next round, place gusset stitches on a holder, remove markers and cast on 1 stitch over gap left by gusset. Knit to the end of the round.
Hand
Work even until hand measures to the top of your little finger.
On next round, decrease 3 stitches evenly.
Shaping the top
Next round: *K8, K2tog* around
Next round: Knit around even
Next round: *K7, K2tog* around
Next round: Knit around even
Next round: *K6, K2tog* around
Next round: Knit around even
Continue decreasing in this fashion every other round until you have 20 stitches left. Then decrease the same way every round until you are down to 8 stitches. Break yarn and thread tail through remaining stitches once or twice. Pull tight to close gap and weave end in on the inside.
Thumb
Arrange gusset stitches onto 3 DPNs, pick up and knit 1 stitch over gap and join. Work even until thumb measures about to the middle of your thumbnail.
[K2 tog, K4] 3 times
Knit even
[K2 tog, K3] 3 times
Knit even
[K2tog, K2] 3 times
[K2tog, K1] 3 times - 6 stitches remain.
Break yarn, thread tail through remaining 6 sts once or twice and pull tightly to close gap; weave tail in on the inside. Weave in loose ends, close gap at base of thumb if necessary and enjoy :)
You may use this pattern for yourself or for gifts. Please do not sell either the pattern or the mittens.
Friday, September 24, 2004
Smitten with the Mitten!
And, without further ado, may I present…
The Cable Cuff Mitten
I’m so proud of this! I did all the math right, figuring out how many stitches, how and where to increase, where to put the thumb. I know none of it is rocket science, but I haven’t done any of that before and I’m just so happy that it all came together!
Rear view
And it looks just the way I envisioned it - in other words, it came out just the way I wanted! Whee!!!
I celebrated last night by crocheting 6 more squares for my afghan :)
I’ll probably do the second mitten over the weekend. I will post the pattern, but I’m afraid it’s going to be for my size hand (big) hand. If I post my notes and thought process, maybe that will help anyone else who’d like to give this a try? It really isn’t difficult; it is a bit involved though :)
I’m off with my dad this afternoon to try a restaurant in Uxbridge, MA called “The Cock and Kettle” (You there in the back - stop snickering!). Coincidentally, Uxbridge is where the Berroco yarn mills are. Hmmmm… Are you pondering what I’m pondering, Pinky? If we have the time, and if Dad’s game, maybe we’ll have a look around…
Have a wonderful Friday, my best to you all -
And a great weekend too - the first of the fall!
Thursday, September 23, 2004
Cuffs, Squares and a Leer
I worked up another cuff yesterday and I do like this one better.
Cabled mitten cuff, redux :)
I went with 8 repetitions of the cable pattern - mostly to give the garter cuff a skosh more ease and did do it all in one piece with a provisional cast-on and a three-needle bind off. Look at the difference between the seam sides of the first try and the second:
Left, first try. Right, second try.
My plan is to pick up 32 sts around the top of the cuff, increase to 42 or 43 stitches on the next row and proceed from there for the hand. I’m working out thumb placement because of the seam - I want the seam to be in the center of the “down” side of the mitten - so it matters where the thumb goes. It did occur to me that this will make for a right-hand mitten and a left-hand mitten - as opposed to two interchangeable any-hand mittens - not that it matters :).
Now - do I cable a bit on the back of the mitten or leave the cable to the cuff? Heheh…
Row two, complete!
Actually, it’s only row 2 in terms of quantity. That is, I have enough squares now to make two rows of the afghan. I’m not going to assemble as I go along because I don’t know what I’m going to have when I finish. For example, while the colors I’m using at the moment are pleasant, they are all dark or muted tones. I’d like to get a few brights in there :) Then, when I have all the squares I need, I’ll clear the kitchen floor and start arranging them until I have something I like. This seems mostly to be a weekend project, but it’s nice to do a square once in a while between knitting things - just for a bit of a break.
Nice to have Smallville back so I can get my weekly Tom Welling fix :)
Wednesday, September 22, 2004
Throwing Down the Gauntlet :)
Are you so sick of seeing pink you could puke? Well, it’s going to be around for a while yet, I’m afraid :)
The mittens...ahem. I did work up a cable “bracelet” and some ribbing.
Cable and cuff
The band is 7 repeats of the cable pattern. When I got that done I had what I thought was a brilliant idea. (Just goes to show that you really shouldn’t trust a notion that announces itself as brilliant, late at night when you’re too tired to see the big stupid sign pasted to its back). The Pinwheel Cap - which this is being designed to accompany - makes use of vertical garter stitch as ribbing. The pattern has you pick up stitches all around the bottom of the hat and then cast on a few more. The cast on stitches are worked. With the last one being worked together with one of the picked up stitches on the brim of the hat.
And I thought - that would be perfect! It wouldn’t be too difficult to execute and it would echo the procedure used on the hat. So I picked up the stitches around the bottom of the cuff, cast on about 25 more (so the ribbing could be doubled over - again like the hat brim) and worked around the cuff in vertical garter, slipping the middle stitch (and purling it on the reverse side) so there’d be a nice chain along the botton of the cuff.
When it was all done, and sewn up, I tried it on. It fit pretty well, snugly, but not tight - perfect. But the seaming of the ends of the cable and of the garter band looked ugly.
And then it whacked me upside the head. I had worked these as two pieces, attaching them to each other as I went along. But they could have been worked together as one piece since the stitches are running the same way. ACK! Where was my brain when I thought this out? Actually, I hadn’t thought this out far enough and that’s the problem :) I’ll be redoing this cuff.
Here’s the scarf pattern along with both cable chart and “pithy” instructions. It is intended to echo the design elements of the Pinwheel cap but should go reasonably well with most other things. A minor warning - this is cable intensive and there are cable-crossing on every right side row. Being able to cable without a needle (see tutorial on the sidebar) is very useful and saves a lot if time.
Open Cable Scarf
Materials:
Worsted Weight yarn
One pair US size 7 needles
Terms:
C4B Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then k2 from the cable needle.
C4F Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, then K2 from cable needle.
FC Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, P1, then k2 from cable needle.
BC Slip next st to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then P1 from cable needle.
Chart for cable panel
For chart readers, simply work three knit stitches at each edge of the scarf and between the cable panels.
Cast on 39 sts
Row 1: *K3, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K2, P2, C4B, P2, Sl1 wyib, P1*; repeat from * to *; end K3.
Row 2: *K4, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1, K1*; repeat from * to *; end K3.
Row 3: *K3, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, FC, BC, FC, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1*; repeat from * to *; end K3.
Row 4: *K4, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1, K1*; repeat from * to *; end K3.
Row 5: *K3, P1, Sl1 wyib, P2, C4F, P2, K2, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1*; repeat from * to *; end K3.
Row 6: *K4, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1, K1*; repeat from * to *; end K3.
Row 7: *K3, P1, Sl1 wyib,P1, BC, FC, BC, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1*; repeat from * to *, ens K3.
Row 8: *K4, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1, K1*; repeat from * to *; end K3.
Repeat rows 1-8 for desired length. Fringe or trim as desired.
The width of the scarf can be easily adapted by adding or subtracting garter stitches or, if much greater width is desired, another cable panel + 3 garter stitches could be added.
The usual restrictions apply. You can share the pattern with your friends, you can make scarves for yourself or for gifts, but please don’t sell either the pattern or the scarf.


