I hadn’t planned to do another stash post today - but you know, stuff happens - right?  Last week, in the same bargain bin where I found the cotton crayons, there were a few skeins of luscious wool/alpaca that I passed on because the colors were...well...kinda dull.  I also figured I didn’t want to be working on wool/alpaca over the summer.  And I couldn’t afford both the cotton and the w/a.  So I opted for the colors :)

You know what happened, right?  I could’t stop thinking about the stuff and what wonderful mittens and hats it would make for winter so I went back to the shop yesterday.  Of course it was gone.  Honestly, I pretty much figured it would be.  It was really soft, lovely stuff and some perspicacious knitter snapped it up.  Well, that’s fair.  After all, I’d had my shot at it.

But, there were other things :)

Cool Stuff!

From the top, going counter-clockwise:

One hank light, lilac Lush - angora and wool.  The stuff feels heavenly, but the reviews I’ve read indicate it’s not a fun yarn to work with.  Regardless, It will make wonderful trim for something :)

Three hanks Bazic washable wool!  This is the first real, standard wool I’ve ever had to play with.  I’m thinking hat and mittens maybe.

One hank of pale yellow Miracle - alpaca and tencel.  While the tag claims it’s 50 grams, my kitchen scale says its more like 120.  Maybe lace with this?  It will have to be just the right project because this is such gorgeous yarn!  This stuff is so soft and lush feeling!  I told Myria last night that I thought I might want to sleep with it.  She snorted at me :)

One hank Spotlight matte cotton.  Okay, I really don’t need anymore cotton, but the colors in this were so cool that I couldn’t leave it behind.  I think I see another little bag in the near future :)

So, while I lost out on the wool/alpaca, I felt pleased with what I did find.  And then, on the way out the door, I spotted this:

Lots and lots of little hanks

There were little tags on each skein, but there was no identification of any kind except for a color code.  The yarn was very soft, the colors were all happy with each other and the box they were stashed in had a big sign on it saying “Free”.  So I grabbed them.  All together, there were 110 little skeins in six colors.

When I got home, I sat down to do a little measuring, swatching and some detective work.

While this LYS carries a fair number of other brands, they are primarily an outlet for the Classic Elite Mills.  So I went to Google and searched on “Classic Elite” along with one of the color codes.  Bingo!  The yarn is “Follies” - 40% rayon, 35% alpaca and 25% wool (hand wash - cold, dry flat).  The colors (from the top and going clockwise) are Blue Ribbon, Rhubarb, Lilac, Thistle, Aqua Ice and Twilight.

Provenance settled, I then brought a hank into the kitchen for a date with the scale :) It weighed .5 oz - about 14 grams.  Then I took the skein apart and measured it - about 20 yards.

Then I worked up swatches:

Twilight

On #7 (US) straights, this worked up at about 4.2 sts/inch and about 6 rows/inch.  A 20 stitch wide, stockinette swatch gave me a piece that measured 4.75” x 6.25” and consisted of approximately 760 stitches.

Lilac

On a #8 (US) circular, this worked up at about 4 sts/inch and 5.5 rows/inch.  A 20 stitch wide, stockinette swatch measured 5” x 6.5” and consisted of approximately 680 stitches.

The yarn was happier on the 8s than on the 7s and yielded a softer, drapier swatch.

Then, after recording all the appropriate information in my notebook, I removed all the tags, separated the colors, tossed the swatches in and put it all away.  This will come out again after summer which gives me time to think about what I’d like to do with it.  The relatively short lengths would make working a sweater something of a pain.  However, they would be fine for making a patchwork afghan and the colors all work together nicely :) This would also yield a more generous afghan than the cotton.  While the cotton is dazzling, it would only provide a small throw which would have none of the warmth of the Follies.

So I’m thinking about something else for the cotton now and I am going to be starting something with it fairly soon.

Total cost of yesterday’s haul?  $6.00 :)

Some mornings it is worth chewing through the leather straps!
(apologies to Emo Phillips)

The Pinwheel Hat

Note:  This pattern is not my design.  It is the creation of Dean Crane and I found it a long time ago on a web site that has since disappeared.  The pattern is presented just as it was on it’s original website except for some minor formatting.

Materials

4oz Knitting Worsted
Size 8 Knitting Needles
Double Pointed Needle ( for Cabling)

Gauge

4 1/2 Sts = 1 inch
5 Rows = 1 inch

Definitions

(Sl 1 wyib) = Slip 1 st purlwise with the yarn in back.
(BC) = slip 1 st to double pointed needle and hold in back. k 2 sts and then p1 st from dpl.
(FC) = slip 2 st to double pointed needle and hold in front. p 1 sts and then k2 sts from dpl.
( 2/2 ) = slip 2 sts to double pointed needle and hold in back. k 2 sts and then k2 sts from dpl.
( 2\2 ) = slip 2 sts to double pointed needle and hold in front. k 2 sts and then k2 sts from dpl.
yo = yarn over.
Turn = Turn the piece around (left needle to right hand, right needle to left hand) and work back to the beginning of row.

Pattern

Cast on 34 st and purl 1 row, then:

Row 1: K3, p1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, K2, P2, ( 2/2), P2, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 2: P2, K1, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1,K1, P3
Row 3: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, ( FC), (BC), (FC), P1, Sl 1 wyib, P1, yo, K1,( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 4: P3, K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1,K1, P3
Row 5: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P2, ( 2\2 ), P2, K2, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K2, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 6: P4, K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1,K1, P3
Row 7: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, (BC), (FC), (BC), P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K3, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 8: P5, K1, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1,K1, P3
Row 9: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, K2, P2, ( 2/2 ), P2, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K4,( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 10: P6, K1, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1,K1, P3
Row 11: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, (FC), (BC), (FC), P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K5,( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 12: P7, K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1,K1, P3
Row 13: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P2, ( 2\2 ), P2. K2, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K6, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 14: P8, K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1,K1, P3
Row 15: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, (BC), (FC), (BC), P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K7, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 16: P9, K1, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1,K1, P3
Row 17: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, K2, P2, ( 2/2 ), P2, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K8, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 18: P10, K1, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1,K1, P3
Row 19: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1,(FC), (BC), (FC), P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1,yo, K9, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 20: P11, K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1,K1, P3
Row 21: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P2, ( 2\2 ), P2. K2, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K10, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), turn
Row 22: P12. K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1,K1, P3
Row 23: K3, P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, (BC), (FC), (BC), P1, (Sl 1 wyib), P1, yo, K11, ( Sl 1, k1, psso), P1,K2 - ( 34 sts on right needle)
Row 24: P2, K1, P13, K1, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1.K1, P3

Repeat rows 1 through 24 five more times (6 all total). K34 sts and bind off loosely.

Garter Stitch Border

With a single knitting needle in your right hand, hold the fabric in your left hand, with the outside facing you and the edge to be picked up on top.  Insert tip of needle from front to back between the first and second knit stitches. wrap the yarn as to knit and draw through a new stitch. Repeat every other row until you have picked up 72 sts. along the right edge of fabric.

Cast on 10st more stitches to make 82 sts on needle.
Row 1:  K 9, k 2 tog, turn.
Row 2:  K 10
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until all 72 picked up stitches have been worked.
Bind off loosely.

Finishing Up

Seam up the two edges. Push the three top rows to the inside and wrap yarn tightly around them to close opening.
Fold garter stitch band in half to the inside and lash loosely to the selvage stitch.
Weave in the ends and Wear the Pinwheel Hat in good health!

My Notes: A provisional cast-on and a three needle bind-off work beautifully as the seam is virtually invisible, being hidden, for the most part, in the folds of the pinwheel.  The crown of this cap was too shallow for my weird head so I added 10 stitches (worked immediately after the y/o on right side rows) which worked out perfectly.  I also added 5 stitches to the garter band, slipping the middle stitch (the 8th) on the front and purling it on the back so that it would fold neatly.  And, last but not least, I picked up 6 stitches at the top of the crown and worked enough I-cord to be able to tie in an overhand knot - just because :)

The Pinwheel Hat

Update - 9/27/2004 This pattern was the design of Dean Crane and may be found in it’s original form here.  Thanks to Grace Stark for pointing me in the right direction!  I am, consequently, removing this pattern from the blog.  I will leave my notes and the cable chart.

Please see the above URL for the original pattern.

My Notes: A provisional cast-on and a three needle bind-off work beautifully as the seam is virtually invisible, being hidden, for the most part, in the folds of the pinwheel.  The crown of this cap was too shallow for my weird head so I added 10 stitches (worked immediately after the y/o on right side rows) which worked out perfectly.  I also added 5 stitches to the garter band, slipping the middle stitch (the 8th) on the front and purling it on the back so that it would fold neatly.  And, last but not least, I picked up 6 stitches at the top of the crown and worked enough I-cord to be able to tie in an overhand knot - just because :)

I was lucky enough to be able to do some stash enhancement last week. 

A King’s Ransom in color!

I’m such a sucker for a pretty face :) Look at all those glorious colors!  I came this close to spreading it all out on the floor and rolling in it.

This is a color run of Classic Elite Sand, a bulky, textured cotton.  There are 22 hanks of beautiful shades, each different.  My head has been playing with what to make with this bright bounty.  My first inclination is a blanket or a throw - something where all the colors can play together and show themselves off.  I have lots of ideas about how to arrange them, but nothing firm at the moment.  I’m still having too much fun dreaming about it.

Texture and size swatch

This color, in my opinion, was the boak of the bunch.  But I was happy to have a hank to play and swatch with.  I suppose it’s possible that I might find a way to work it in - I guess we’ll see :) The swatch was worked on a size 8 circular needle and the fabric was quite nice - very drapey and the texture of the yarn is visually fun and very soft to the hand.  Of course I also had the thought that it won’t matter if the cats tangle with it because it already looks like they did :)

This swatch is being frogged though.  These aren’t huge hanks of yarn - about 75 yards each and I want them to go as far as possible.  To that end, I’m going to work this up a couple of other ways to see what I can do to maximize how far the yarn will go.  If anyone has suggestions or tips, I’d be grateful to hear them :)

Grumpus

Fluffy is not a fan of warm weather and has not been feeling himself the last few days.  He’s lying in one of those little carpeted towers which, you can see, has been well used :) The temp has dropped quite a bit this evening and a thunderstorm introduced itself a few minutes ago so perhaps he’ll perk up a bit.

A final, non-knitting note.  My dad is a decent man and I love him.  But there is no getting around the fact that he is the quintessential Puritan right down to the very bedrock of his soul.  As you probably know, the possibility of gay marriage now exists here in the Bay state - at least for a while.  This is anathema to someone like my father who is upset, disgusted and (I think) frightened by the very idea.  This isn’t a topic we can discuss because our feelings about the issue are very strong and, of course, diametrically opposed.  So when things changed on May 17th - which happens to be Dad’s birthday - I couldn’t help but feel a bit evilly gleeful :) Yes, I am a wicked child :)

Happy Wednesday, all!

We have been playing with Expression Engine over the weekend as a probable replacement for Movable Type.  Personally, I have quite enjoyed Movable Type and have learned a great deal from working with it.  However it’s parent company, Six Apart, has overhauled their licensing structure with the release of Movable Type 3.0 making it unlikely that we will continue to use it.  Pmachine made a timely offer with Expression Engine, free to the first 1000 requests and quick-thinking Myria was able to obtain a copy of it.

I’ll be working on moving the blog over the next couple of weeks.  The address will not change and, I hope, the look won’t change too much.  I’m sorry not to be able to continue with Movable Type, which I have liked and I’m not too thrilled with having to learn to manage another piece of software but - that’s life :)

On to the good stuff!

Emboldened by Ryan’s successful steeking experiment, I embarked on one of my own.  Since I don’t have access to a sewing machine, I opted for crocheted steeks.

Crocheted Steek

I have to admit, once the crocheting was done, it wasn’t too traumatic to cut the steek.  Maybe because I’ve been thinking about it so much - and maybe because this is just a practice piece anyway :) When (and if) it ever comes to slicing open a real garment...let’s just say I’ll have the whiskey handy - for medicinal purposes, of course!

Cut made

I didn’t know how to handle the cast on and bound off edges, so that’s something that requires further study because they aren’t holding.  However, the edges of the steek, where the crochet stitches are, are holding amazingly well.  I tugged and pulled on them, sure that all the little ends would come flying out - but they stayed right where they were supposed to.

Panel pattern

This was a fairly traditional type pattern executed in less than exciting yarn, but for all that it doesn’t look too bad.  I’m still not sure this is a technique I’ll ever do much with, but it’s nice to know I can if the need ever arises.  Frankly, I like the colorwork so much, that the need probably will arise sooner or later :)

And last but certainly not least:

A whole sock!

I did finish the first Dublin Bay sock and am pretty darned pleased with it over all.  I’ll make both the leg and the ribbing a little longer on the next one.  The ankle is a bit baggy for my taste so I am considering what to do about that - besides live with it :) I could do some more ribbing in that area to help pull things in.  I’m also wondering about going down to size 0 needles for a couple of ankle-inches and restoring the size 1s when I get to the heel.  The heel and foot are perfection; they fit wonderfully well.

I did not, as I had hoped, master the fine art of grafting.  It seemed so simple in the directions and was so frustrating in reality that I eventually abandoned it.  I put the toe stitches on holders, turned the whole thing inside-out and did a three needle bind-off.  That does put a seam across the toe, but it doesn’t seem to be a problem.  I can’t feel it when I have the sock on and it looks nice.

Additional Note

Ryan’s pattern for the Dublin Bay socks was one of the clearest, most well thought out patterns I have ever had the pleasure of knitting.  I can (and many times do) interpret, but it’s such a delight when I don’t have to stop in the middle of things to puzzle out something obscure or unclear!  Kudos, Ryan!

Hope your collective Mondays aren’t too taxing!

Death and life are looked on
As but transformations;
The myriad creation is all of a kind,
There is a kinship through all.

- Huai Nan Tzu (2nd century B.C.)

from Daily Zen

Following is the pattern for the mitten.  This could be put together any number of ways, including with a more standard type of ribbing - but this is the way I did it.  Please feel free to adapt to your particular desires and please feel free to drop me a line (see sidebar) if you run into any difficulties or peculiarities in the pattern!

Cable Cuff Mittens

Thought Process

I get a gauge of 5 sts/in (stockinette) using the Waterspun yarn and size 7 (US) needles.  So I cast on enough stitches to do the cable panel +1 stitch for the selvedge edge where the stitches will be picked up for the hand + 25 sts for the vertical garter double-cuff.  For my wrist, 8 repetitions of the cable panel were what it took to go around comfortably.  I did a provisional cast-on and, when the length was appropriate, a three-needle bind-off.  Then, using Ann Budd’s The Knitter’s Hand Book of Patterns as a guide, I picked up around the top of the cuff, increased on the next row to the number of stitches required for my size hand and worked from there.  Basically, you work the cable/cuff part until it fits comfortably around your wrist and then sew it up.  Fold half of the cuff to the inside and sew to the bottom of the cable band.  Pick up stitches around the top and, if necessary, increase on the next row until you have what you need to make a comfortable hand for you.  Any mitten pattern will serve as a reasonable guide - including your favorite pattern.  Then it’s just working the hand until it’s done.

Pattern (i.e. - what I actually did)

Materials

About 150 grams worsted weight yarn
Straight needles, size 7 (US)
Double point needles, size 7 (US)
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Terms

K Knit
P Purl
Sl1 wyib Slip one stitch purlwise with the yarn in back.
FC (front cross) Slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in front.  P1.  K2 from cable needle.
BC (back cross) Slip 1 stitch to cable needle and hold in back.  K2.  P1 from cable needle.
C4B Slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in back. K2.  K2 from cable needle.
C4F Slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in front.  K2.  K2 from cable needle.
Pm Place marker
M1 Increase by picking up running thread between stitches, front to back and knitting into the back of this stitch.

Gauntlet Cuff

Cast on (provisionally) 41 stitches.

Row 1: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K2, P2, C4B, P2, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1.

Row 2: K2, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1, K13, P1, K12

Row 3: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, FC, BC, FC, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1

Row 4: K2, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1, K13, P1, K12

Row 5: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, Sl1 wyib, P2, C4F, P2, K2, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1

Row 6: K2, P1, K1, P2, K2, P4, K2, P1, K13, P1, K12

Row 7: K12, Sl1 wyib, K12, P1, sl1 wyib, P1, BC, FC, BC, P1, Sl1 wyib, P1, K1

Row 8: K2, P1, K2, P4, K2, P2, K1, P1, K13, P1, K12

Repeat these rows eight times.  Length of cable should be about 9.5”.  Release provisional cast on, picking up stitches on a spare needle the same size as the ones you’re working with.  Do a three-needle bind-off or graft if you prefer.  You could also cast on and cast off in the normal fashion and mattress stitch the seam - all that matters is that you do what you prefer and are comfortable with.

Turn the piece inside out and fold the gauntlet up to the bottom of the cable.  The slipped stitches should be running in a chain around the bottom edge of the cuff.  Sew the edge of the cuff neatly to the bottom of the cable band.

Hand

Starting to the immediate left of the seam and on the right side of the work, pick up 36 stitches around the top of the cable band.

Knit around, increasing 7 stitches evenly - 43 stitches.

Knit 2 rounds even.

Thumb gusset - right hand

K33, pm, M1, K1, M1, pm, k10

Knit 2 rounds even

K33, M1, K3, M1, K10

Knit 2 rounds even

K33, M1, K5, M1, K10

Knit 3 round even

K33, M1, K7, M1, K10

Repeat the last two rows 4 more times, adding 2 gusset stitches in the fashion described on each increase row until you have 17 gusset stitches in all.

Thumb gusset - left hand

K10, pm, M1, K1, M1, pm, K33

Knit 2 rounds even

K10, M1, K3, M1, K33

Knit 2 rounds even

K10, M1, K5, M1, K33

Knit 3 round even

K10, M1, K7, M1, K33

Repeat the last two rows 4 more times, adding 2 gusset stitches in the fashion described on each increase row until you have 17 gusset stitches in all.

On next round, place gusset stitches on a holder, remove markers and cast on 1 stitch over gap left by gusset.  Knit to the end of the round.

Hand

Work even until hand measures to the top of your little finger.

On next round, decrease 3 stitches evenly.

Shaping the top

Next round: *K8, K2tog* around
Next round: Knit around even
Next round: *K7, K2tog* around
Next round: Knit around even
Next round: *K6, K2tog* around
Next round: Knit around even

Continue decreasing in this fashion every other round until you have 20 stitches left.  Then decrease the same way every round until you are down to 8 stitches.  Break yarn and thread tail through remaining stitches once or twice.  Pull tight to close gap and weave end in on the inside.

Thumb

Arrange gusset stitches onto 3 DPNs, pick up and knit 1 stitch over gap and join.  Work even until thumb measures about to the middle of your thumbnail.

[K2 tog, K4] 3 times
Knit even
[K2 tog, K3] 3 times
Knit even
[K2tog, K2] 3 times
[K2tog, K1] 3 times - 6 stitches remain.

Break yarn, thread tail through remaining 6 sts once or twice and pull tightly to close gap; weave tail in on the inside.  Weave in loose ends, close gap at base of thumb if necessary and enjoy :)